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ONE Pre-visualize your processing |
Open your digital images with an idea towards what you
want to accomplish first. Don't think that every image needs the same
preset applications of filters, color, contrast, or other editing/image tools.
Look at your image and make a list of its weaknesses, the areas you want to
improve or return to how you remember them looking. That is a great place to start
the digital processing work-flow. TIP
Take a pencil and paper and list your images weakness before you begin, then
create new layers (or multiple layers as needed) as you process that list.
Start with simple things like removing dust spots or correcting the horizon,
then move to the more difficult things like correcting white balance, removing
distracting objects, replacing closed eyes, etc. |
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TWO Create a functional Workspace |
Layout your tool bar and palettes
and save your workspace. The next time you start Photoshop your workspace
will be ready for you. You can access your palettes in the Windows menu.
Once the workspace is how you want it, save your workspace by going to Windows >
Workspace > Save Workspace and
give it an easy name ... mine is Brent's Workspace. View a screenshot of
my workspace, click
here. |
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THREE
Create Actions |
Creating Actions to perform oft-repeated key strokes or menu selections will make working in Photoshop much more time effective. There are step-by-step instructions in the February 2010 newsletter (click here) on how to create Actions. While there could be thousands of possible Actions, some that I've made and constantly use are: Convert to BW, Resize Images for Email, change Colorspace, Color Saturation, etc. View a screenshot of my Actions Palette, click here. TIP
An Action can have more than one set of tool keystrokes. If you commonly
add your copyright to an image, or change the colorspace to sRGB for the web -
then you can add those keystrokes to any Action you create as well. |
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FOUR Create a New Layer |
Whenever you open a new image the first thing you should do is create a new
layer to do your work on. You can drag the background layer to the Copy
Layer Icon at the bottom of the Layers Palette, or you can use the shortcut
command, CTL-J. Each time you make different types of changes you
should do them on different layers in case you want to go back and make changes
to those specific processing steps. Deleting a layer is easy, you just
don't want to lose all the processing steps you have already done. TIP
As you complete changes to the image via Layers
you can click the eye on/off in the Layers Palette of those Layers to review the
before changes/after changes differences. If you find your changes too
strong, instead of deleting the Layer and starting over, try reducing the
Opacity of that Layer instead. This reduces how much of that Layer you are
seeing, which sometimes blends the Layer better. |
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FIVE
Lower Tool Opacity |
Working on photographs in Photoshop requires some
blending in order to make the changes without evidence of the work you do.
The best way to do this is to use the Tools Opacity settings at less than 100%.
For example, in my seminars I open the eyes of a mother in a wedding photo by
copying a better set of her eyes from another photo. Once they are sized
right (using guides) I slowly erase around the new eyes to blend them into the
photo, so the new eyes are indistinguishable in the original image. I use
the eraser tool at a 20% (or lower) opacity setting so no harsh edges exist.
Using the copy tool, the eraser tool, the paintbrush tool (especially when using
masks), sharpen tool, etc can all be done at less than 100% to blend your
corrections. To view a screenshot of the Tool Options Bar,
click here. TIP Go slowly when you make changes. Instead of dramatic, quick, single-stroke changes work the image slowly - using lower opacity tool settings. |
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SIX
Save Unfinished |
You can't save an image with Layers as a .jpg
file. If the image you are working on requires future retouching then save
it as a .psd (Photoshop) file in order to save all the Layers. Photoshop
will default to the .psd extension if the image has not been flattened to one
Layer. It is a good idea to retain the .psd file on images that have
required extensive processing and retouching just in case you need to make
future changes. TIP
Photoshop files are large, so the decision as to
whether to keep them or delete them after saving the final image as a .tif or
.jpg file should be made with that in mind. I keep multi-layered, complex
files as both a .psd (for future changes) and as a .jpg (current uses).
Tif files are also very large, uncompressed files. |
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SEVEN
Use the Correct |
Most D-SLR's will allow you to choose the color
space to shoot in, with two normal options: Adobe RGB (1998) and sRGB. I
shoot my images in the Adobe RGB (1998) color space. This color space is
larger (more colors) than the color space used on the web - sRGB. If you
plan on e-mailing your images to others, placing them on a website or hosting
service, or to use as wallpaper or screensavers - then you need to save them
with the sRGB color space; otherwise, the colors will appear flat. The
color profile of images can be accessed by clicking Edit > Color Settings
or Edit > Assign Profile - and making the correct choice. Create an
Action to make this selection even easier. To view a screen capture of the
Color Settings Dialog Box,
click here. TIP
I print a lot of large prints, up to 48 inches, nearly every
month. I did a match print test on one image, at 16x20 sizes, in both
color spaces and could only barely see a difference. However, the
difference on the web is noticeable right away. |
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EIGHT
Turn the Ruler ON |
Always turn the Ruler On. It can be accessed at View > Ruler, or by using
the shortcut CTL-R. Also, I turn the Snap feature, and Snap To
features both on. Not only does this help in seeing relative proportions
in the image, but you can drag guides from the ruler area that can help you in
lining up horizons, straightening perspectives, etc. To view a screen
capture of the Rulers choices (click
here). TIP With your mouse pointer in the ruler area, you can right click the mouse and see a context menu that will allow you to change the Ruler from inches, to pixels, to centimeters, etc. - or back. |
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NINE Use Masks for processing selected image areas. |
There are times when only selected areas of in image need work done. When that area is difficult to select then its easier to use a mask - then paint the changes in gradually. There is an article in the October 2009 Newsletter (Click Here) about creating masks. There is an old saying in Photoshop that "black conceals, white reveals". ALT + Mask Layer Icon produces a black mask hiding the layer, which then can be made transparent (showing the Layer only where you paint) by using the Paintbrush Took, with white selected, and a low Opacity setting, like 10-15%. You simply paint on the photo where you want to reveal the Layer - and you will see white begin to appear in the black mask, showing where it is becoming transparent. TIP
Masks are an integral part of image processing. It is
the easiest way to process small areas of an image, and to do so gradually so
the changes appear absolutely natural. This might be adding sharpening or
contrast to selected areas of the image, or color saturation. |
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TEN
Image Data |
Knowing how to access Image Data is important to
remembering what exposure combinations worked the best. It can be accessed
two different ways: 1. In Photoshop go to File > File Info to review the
EXIF (Exchangeable Image File) Information or to add copyright information.
2. If you use Adobe Bridge (bundled with Photoshop) you can right-click on a
photo and select File Info from the options. You can enter
copyright and contact information about yourself, websites, e-mail addresses,
phone, etc. You can see when the image was taken, and in some high-end
cameras, a GPS read-out of the exact location it was taken. To view a
screen shot of the File Data Dialog Box,
click here. TIP
Camera Data is important, especially down the road. Knowing the |
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ELEVEN Use the Crop Tool |
Never resize an image smaller by using the
Image > Image Size command. Instead, select the Crop Tool and enter
the settings you want (width/height/resolution) in the Tool Options Bar.
This allows you to easily delete the crop, re-crop, move the selected crop size
around the image, etc - in order to improve the crop. You can also save
different option settings for the Crop Tool by clicking the down arrow in the
Crop Icon square in the Option Bar, then clicking the New Tool Preset icon and
entering a name. To view a screen shot of the Tool Preset options,
click here. TIP I have dozens of preset crop dimensions so I don't have to keep entering them as I go. I have one for classic sizes (like an 8x10 at 300dpi), my large website images (8.333"x5.556" at 72dpi), my website banner images (11.111"x7.38" at 72dpi), my laptop wallpaper (1366px by 768px at 96dpi), etc etc. |
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TWELVE
Batch Process |
I shoot a lot of RAW images and wouldn't even
consider processing them one at a time. If you select a number of similar
images and drop them into Photoshop you will see them all shown on the left side
of the Adobe Camera Raw (ACR) interface. Click on the Select All button
and apply your processing corrections to all of them at once. When your
finished you can open all the images into Photoshop for individual tweaking, and
saving. To view a screen shot of the ACR interface,
click here. TIP
I usually batch process RAW files about a dozen at a time. I keep the
color enhancements to a minimum and apply some sharpening, exposure corrections,
shadow/highlight controls, etc. If the next batch of images is similar,
then I can click on the little down arrow in the ACR interface to the right of
the "Basic" corrections and click on the "Previous Conversion" to apply the same
corrections to this next batch without having to select them. |
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THIRTEEN
Use Guides |
Guides are simple vertical and horizontal lines
that can be dragged out of the Ruler, or created in the View > New Guide
dialog box. The guides can then be used to square up the image, establish
sizes (for replacing eyes, inserting people, etc.) or be used to snap other
objects to, like Text. To view a screen shot of guides being used,
click here. TIP
In creating new guides you can use
percentages in the New Guide dialog box. You can find the direct middle by
entering 50% when selecting a vertical line, then the same amount when selecting
a horizontal line. With Snap ON selected layers will snap to the guides
quickly. |
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FOURTEEN
Use Small Brushes |
Everything about digitally processing your images
should be done on a small scale, with a minimalist attitude towards corrections.
Folks send me images all the time and I notice that many times I can see brush
strokes of sharpness, copy/pasted corrections, and healing brush changes along
the edges. Use brush sizes that are just big enough to do the job.
Also, when painting in masks, be careful to use a brush size that won't go over
into areas you don't want to effect, especially along a skyline. TIP Like the Crop Tool, you can save preset brush sizes, opacity, and flow as a tool preset. When you click on the small down-arrow in the tool options bar, click on Current Tool Only to see just the brushes, or just the presets for any tool you have selected. |
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FIFTEEN
Sharpen Images Last |
The last step in your digital processing is to
apply sharpening. Now, in RAW images it is applied at the time the image
is opened into Photoshop from ACR, but for JPG images the sharpening filter
should be used last. Always create a new Layer to apply the sharpening
filter to. I usually will over sharpen a bit then back it off to where I
like it by reducing the opacity of the Layer. In areas of the image where
you would expect to find greater sharpness (sometimes Contrast as well) apply
over sharpening to the Layer, then use a black Mask to paint in that sharpness
gradually. This is particularly good in images with foreground objects,
like rocks, roads, etc. |
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SIXTEEN
Reset White Balance |
Many images have a color caste to them.
Sometimes its blue, sometimes yellow, sometimes magenta, and they are usually
hard to see. When I'm preparing an image for printing I will always create
a new layer (CTL-J) and attempt to reset the
White Balance to see how it affects the image. The eyedroppers in both the
Levels and Curves dialog boxes are used to establish a white point,
middle-toned, or black point in the image. Clicking on the white
eyedropper and clicking on an area of the image that should be pure white will
reset the White Balance of the image. If it changes too much you can
delete the Layer, but if its better, but slightly too much change, just turn
down the Opacity of that Layer until you like it. To view a screen shot of
the Eyedroppers in the Levels Dialog Box,
click here.
TIP
Shooting in gymnasiums, heavy shadows,
areas of strong color (autumn leaves), morning mist, cloudy, etc - are all
situations where resetting the white balance might improve the colors in the
image. |
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SEVENTEEN Reduce to E-mail |
Is there anything worse than receiving an e-mail
with an attached image that is larger than the screen size, forcing you to
scroll through it? This is what I do to e-mail images. 1.
I copy the images to an e-mail folder on my hard-drive. 2. Go
to Image > Image Size and set the Resolution to 72 pixels/inch. Click OK.
3. Go to File > Automate > Fit Image and set the pixel dimensions
of both Width and Height to 800. Click Ok. Save and Close. You don't
have to worry about over-writing your originals because these were images you
copied to the new directory to e-mail. TIP Create an Action to do these steps, then you can File > Automate > Batch and run this Action in the E-mail directory very quickly. Whenever you have more images to e-mail just copy to this directory and run the Action as part of a Batch operation. Images that have already been down-sized for e-mailing won't be affected. |
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EIGHTEEN Common Mistakes and Quick Tips |
When something goes wrong, or doesn't do what I
expect, it is always my fault. Here are some simple mistakes to avoid: 1. Make sure you are working on the right Layer in the Layers Palette box, and make sure you are working on the right type of Layer. 2. Make sure the right tool is selected, with the right tool options selected. 3. If saving a processed RAW file to a JPG, make sure its bit depth is correct. Go to Image > Mode and select 8 Bits/per channel. RAW files are usually 16 Bits/per channel which can be saved as a TIF file, but not a JPG. If the file is 16 Bits/per channel, you will not have an option to Save the file as a JPG. 4. Some types of commands are only available if you are working on a Background Layer Copy, or Layer 1 copy of the image. Hit CTL-J. For example, Edit > Stroke (putting a line around a selected area) is not available if you are working on the Background Layer, but it is available on any other type of Layer, like a Layer 1 or a Background Copy layer. 5. Apply changes slowly. Either turn down the Opacity of the Tool being used in the Tool Options Bar, or turn down the Opacity of the Layer you are working on. I would rather apply small levels of sharpening twice or three times, than large levels of sharpening once. 6. There are always two, three, four ways to do something in Photoshop - if the way you're are trying isn't working well - search Help or search Online - for other ways. You can call or e-mail me as well. 7. Your Brush or Stamp Tool suddenly turns from a circle to crosshairs - just hit the Caps Lock button on your keyboard to switch it back to circle. 8. Add Notes or measure distances with the Ruler Tool - both of which are available by pressing and holding the Eyedropper Tool Icon in the Tool Bar down, then selecting them. |
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| If you have your own TIPS or TRICKS - send them to me and I will include them here. |
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© Brent Russell Paull May, 2010 All Rights Reserved under United States and International Laws No Images or Website Content May Be Copied, Printed, Distributed, or Published without written permission. |
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